The continuing debate of the question, “Are Woodpecker tools worth the price?” Of course, only the individual woodworker can answer that question. For me, that answer is, Yes! Here’s why.
Most hardware stores will sell a generic block plane for a relatively small price. In order to make it usable, one must spend hours setting it up and preparing the sole and blade for use. On the other hand, one could purchase a Lie-Nielsen or Veritas block plane, and, for the most part, it is usable right out of the box.
The question is, what is your time worth? Would you rather use a tool that is accurate and ready to go when it arrives in your shop, or spend the time getting it ready to use? I would rather create and build things rather than set up tools.
Likewise, many of the tools on this page can be replicated with shop-made jigs. I have built dozens and dozens of them in the past forty years. When I retired from full-time active ministry as an Episcopal priest, I decided that I would rather purchase an accurate, ready-to-go tool/jig rather than build one or prepare one for use.
So, for me, the Red Tools are worth it, and what follows on this page is my collection of them (so far).
Blessings, --Mark
In woodworking, being able to read an exact square corner is very helpful! Woodpecker tools are pricy, and the precision devices seem worth it to me.
Marking Knife
I have a Veritas marking knife that I carry in my tool pouch, but it has a plastic handle, and the blade is permanently attached. This Woodpecker version is made from aircraft-grade aluminum and has a replaceable blade. When I need a precise line to start a chisel or handsaw cut, this is my go-to marking knife.
Paolini Pocket Rule
This all-around rule is the everyday carry in my pouch. I use it for both tool setup and layout. It is the most used rule in my shop.
Mini Square
This mini-square came in a Christmas gift mug set with a Paolini Pocket Rule, the DelVe Square, and a .9 mm mechanical pencil (below). Although I did not intend to purchase it, it has been handy to check square while sharpening a chisel or the corner of small boxes.
DeadNuttz Square
Having a 90-degree and a 45-degree angle guaranteed in the shop is very handy. This ¼” chunk of stainless steel never goes out of square and is virtually indestructible.
DelVe Square
The angles are precise, and it is the everyday carry in my pouch. If I need to quickly check a square corner, I reach for this tool first. The only downside is that the aluminum square will dent if you drop it on the concrete floor!
Bevel Gauge
I have several bevel gauges, but this version is the ONLY one that absolutely locks in the setting. Made from Stainless steel and aircraft-grade aluminum, this is a very fine layout tool. It really saves in the frustration of checking the angle on a gauge and having the blade move slightly. Once you lock this blade down, it takes some force to move it before it is unlocked!
The last time I made a tall chimney-style bookcase, I noticed one of the shelves looked slanted. It was in fact because I misread my tape measure by an ⅛” of an inch. I cut a new mortise and noticed I misread the tape again. So the side of the case has three mortises stacked on top of each other ⅛” apart. I see my mistake every day, as it faces my desk in the guest room.
After this experience, I decided to get this Story Stick for casework layout. Repeatable measurements that will not confuse my dyslexic little brain are very helpful for accurate layouts!
Having an accurate straightedge within arm's reach is very helpful (Rule to the right). I have a Veritas straight edge, which features a large flat surface for reading, and I find this tool doubles in use, as one side is flat and stands on its own, while the other is beveled for accurate marking.
The T-Square hangs right next to my bench. When laying out sheet goods, this tool is very handy for ensuring that my tracksaw is lined up square to the side of the sheet goods. I make oversized cuts here and then cut final dimensions on the tablesaw, and it is nice to know that the first rough cut is straight and parallel!
These set-up gauges will securely fit in a ¾” slot on your tablesaw, router table, or bench. These tools make quick, accurate positioning from that slot a breeze. I don’t often use these tools, but when I need to check the distance of a parallel fence, it is nice to have these hanging on the shop wall!
The Woodpecker pencil came in the Christmas gift package. Compared to the Pentel version, it is much lighter, and the lead does not detract at a click. But it sits on my bench, and I find myself grabbing it half the time to make a quick mark. .9 mm is the way to go, in my opinion. The lead has enough girth that it does not snap off as easily as the .5 mm thickness, and still makes a crisp line for layout.
This sled is heavy and pricey, but if you want to make extremely precise and safe cuts on the tablesaw, it is worth every dollar and ounce! If you need to make cuts at high angles, like 60-degree corners, this jig lets you set the blade at 30 degrees and make the cut accurately and safely multiple times. A real-time (and finger) saver! Dialing in multiple lap or bridle joints is equally simple. The precision of this jig is simply amazing!
Saw Stop users need to worry about running into that aluminum fence. The bottom knob can be set to lock in the height, while still allowing slide motion.
The magic of this jig happens on this side. The two outside slots are for the one-time setup to get the jig parallel to the blade. Loosen the black knobs to make gross adjustments and bring the jig close to the cut, then loosen the red knobs to fine-tune it to a perfect cut. Once everything is tightened back down, make as many identical cuts as required!
This sled comes with a wall mount. In my shop, the walls are sheetrock, so the mount is attached to a small strip of sheet stock, which is attached to studs. Did I mention that this sled does weigh a bit! :)
This sled is accurate and light! I have made many sleds over the years, and having one that is light and close to the saw is a wonderful gift. This sled has positive stops at all the typical angles, and the off-cut side of the sled makes small cuts just a bit safer!
Woodpecker has come out with an excellent miter gauge. It was very precise right out of the box on my saw, and for making dados and wide cuts, this really answers the call! You might be wondering why the miter gauge when you already have the sled. If I have a dado blade installed, I don’t want to lose that zero clearance fit of the sled, so sometimes you need both!
I was surprised that the Woodpeckers doesn't offer a wall mount, as having the gauge kick around a workbench is not a very good idea. Building a simple mount out of some scrap Baltic Birch was a must!
If you do a lot of batch cuts or dados, the Rip-Flip system from Woodpercker's is a worthy consideration.
I like to use dados and gooves in cabinet builds, and the Rip-Flip system allows me to set up perfect-fitting dados one time, and then slide the system down the rail to cut repeatable dados over and over. This is a huge time-saver and allows for very precise results. A win-win!
The marketing for this tablesaw accessory is so you can have full threads on a ¾” or larger dado stack. But since I have installed the Rip-Flip, I rarely use anything over a ¼” or ½” stack. Since it has a wide base, I considered using it as the daily driver, but the exposed portion of the nut is only about a ¼” and in my experience, it is just too finicky to spin on. The large standard Saw Stop nut is much easier to grab.
Living in the desert, we normally have very little humidity, so wood movement is not much of a problem, especially for the table saw fence. I'm a bit type-A, and when I ran a dial gauge along the original Saw Stop fence, the needle was jumping back and forth a bit too much. Replacing the stock fence with the Vera Fence—dead smooth and no movement!
The fence will accept the Jessem hold-down accessories, but I continue to utilize the original track that I attached to the top of the fence bar. I do use this top track when I need to add a jig to the fence. It accepts off-the-shelf ¼-20 bolts and is very handy.
The back of the fence upgrade features a coated steel backing fence, along with stainless steel knobs and threaded rod. All are very well made. Since one of my push sticks always resided between the Jessem Track and the right fence, since the fence was gone, I needed to add a small piece of ¼” MDF to the back so the push stick could continue to ride the fence.
When I purchased the Spline Jig, I wondered how much I would use it. I have made other shop-made spine jigs, but this one beats them all. I rarely have an unsupported miter with a spine after getting this jig.
The three channels on the face, plus the top and bottom channels, provide an infinite number of possible hold-down options. Both sides have a couple of positions to handle a wide variety of corner sizes. Even severe angles, such as those in a triangular box, can be safely and securely held in place with a set of wedges to facilitate cutting. In addition, the four centering stops make repeatable cuts a breeze. I am very glad I took the chance on this tool accessory!
I have made a few jigs to attach a dial indicator to check blade and fence alignment to the slots. But to have one made from stainless steel and aircraft-grade aluminum is one of those buy once, cry once, and done deals. I am glad I have this permanent reference tool in the shop. Although it is not needed very often, the tool is solid and accurate when you do need it.
Having a precisely ground flat-tooth blade in the shop is a joy. This blade is only installed in the saw when I need to cut dados, grooves, box joints, or spline cuts. The version I purchased is ⅛” inch, as I wanted it for spline joints as well. I was tempted by the ¼” blade, but with the Rip-Flip system, making a ¼” groove for a dado was as easy as moving the fence back and forth in the captured jig. ⅛” is all I needed in my shop, and this blade gets a regular workout!
The dust collector and all the tools with a 4” dust port have a MagQuick dust collection port attached. This makes it as simple as moving the hose from one tool to another. Fast and secure. This is another great addition to the shop.
I have one 4” hose with the MagQuick connector with the four earth magnets attached. Just get the end of the hose close to the connector with the steel ring, and it snaps into place.
Trim Routers have become the new workhorses of the modern shop. This small router table hangs off the end of my workbench, and when I am doing production work and have the main router table with one bit chucked up, and this second smaller tool with another bit ready to go, it makes for twice the work and saves an enormous amount of time with bit changes. By combining the ease and convenience of a second router solution with the precision that Woodpecker brings to all their tools, you get a truly winning combination in my shop.
If you do a lot of pattern work with the Router table and are tired of having to chuck another bit for some edge treatment, then this small Woodpecker trim router base and table might be just what you are looking for.
I leave the ⅛" round-over bit in the trim router and move from my router table to this trim router to finish up the edge treatment in two easy steps.
The 1" Baltic birch trim router table has two slots that clamps can slide into and attach to this small shelf I installed on the end of my workbench.
I have blown through the micro-thin layer, especially on inexpensive sheet goods, sanding the banding flush by leaving the sander in one spot for too long. This simple tool is designed to solve this issue by adjusting the router bit (below) a few thousandths of an inch higher than the finished height. A quick sand to clean up the edge is all that is needed. I will see how this works.
The underside of the base has a removable fence and holes for virtually every manufacturer's router base.
Spoilboard and Chamfer Bit
The relatively new technology of replaceable cutting edges of router bits may be a game-changer. Getting a nick or dulled edge is as simple as loosening the lock bolt and turning the cutter a ¼ turn.
I am also glad to finally add a spoil board bit for making a flat bottom cuts. I have used various bits with cutting edges that protrude above the bit to make a flat cut, similar to what the spoil board bit creates. Nice to have the right tool for the right job in the shop!