The Garage Shop Ministry

Specializing in VBS & Woodworking for People of Faith!


The Wall'o Jigs!

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For a description of each of these jigs, begin at the far left and proceed around clockwise.

1. Edge beveling jig: I mount a router to the fence, which is set at 15 degrees from the base. I use this jig to bevel large tabletops, which would be unsafe standing on edge on the table saw.

2. NYW Raised panel Jig: Made the jig for my Unifence after watching Norm on the 2001 season Jigs episode.

3. Circle cutting jig: Thanks Norm!

4. Feather Board on top of sheet goods knock down jig. The latter is simply a straight edge to run along my saw.

5. Tapering jig: Thanks again Norm.

6. Another Feather board on top of a long tapering jig. I built the tall plant stand from NYW and made this jig from watching the show. Thanks again Norm!

7. Auxiliary fence for Unifence so the saw blade does not damage the aluminum fence.

8. Thin strip rip gauge (kind of looks like a 'P'): This jig slips into the left miter slot. I set the screw on the jig from 1/8"- 1" and run the board up, move the fence over and lock it down to cut identical repetitive strips. This way the strip falls to the left of the blade to avoid kickbacks!

9. Box Joint Jig: made from the ShopNotes #62. Really a slick jig, dead on accurate and easy to set up.

10. 5-in-1 Router system: from ShopNotes #61. This is the flush trim jig (the only one I made from the article) works great!

Shop Made Mortising Jig

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This is the most useful jig in the shop. It beats my Delta benchtop mortise machine hands down! I built this jig to correct the only flaw in the vertical router-mortising jig (next jig below)—it was hard to adjust the bit to the layout lines because you have to look through a small slot. This jig solves that problem and the fine vertical adjustment (knob below the table) allows for very precise adjustments up or down. It is REALLY easy to line up the bit with the lay out lines.

The table is held in place by four springs (bottom right picture). This allows it to slide on the angled pieces to adjust height.

You attach the router to a router plate and then slide behind the front wall of the box. Two cleats hold it tight to the front wall, and all one has to do it move the box forward on the handle (it slides on a couple drawer slides) and then slide the table back and forth. Sliding window locks limit the length of the mortise. It works great and is faster to use, and faster to set up than the jig below. You can find the plan for this jig in ShopNotes (Issue #68).
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