The Garage Shop Ministry

Specializing in VBS & Woodworking for People of Faith!

Blade Cover

The basic design I borrowed from Al Amaral's design, which I found by searching the web and also from a design found in a Badger Pond article that now in Wood Central's archives. Mine is essentially a Beisemeyer design with a Brett-guard style basket. After looking at the commercial units (and their prices), I decided to build my own.

I have had tons of emails about construction details and measurements for the blade cover system. So, I decided to add this page to provide more information and save typing the same thing over and over.

If you have any questions or are curious about various measurements, please feel free to contact me.
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The main arm attaches to the table via a piece of angle iron to prevent forward/back motion and upright is bolted at the bottom to the mobile base to prevent right/left motion. It's rock solid!
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The box (left) simply bolts to the bottom 7" piece of 1" aluminum tube. I filled this tube with a piece of hardwood so I could use screws to attach it rather than nuts and bolts.

I like the low square design of the blade cover because it maximizes a clear view of the cut line and it also clears away the dust better.
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1" Horizontal Tube Dimensions List (right picture)
Top tube = 12" Middle tube = 14.5" Bottom of cantilever section tube = 8" Tube that connects the box to the frame = 7"
1/8" X 1" flat stock (right picture above)
(2) 8" front pieces that freely pivot (left side of picture) (2) 9" rear pieces that lock down by the 1/4" bolts and thru-knobs (right side of picture)

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The "secret" to connecting the tubing together and making the 90-degree turn is placing a piece of hardwood in the 4" piece of tube (right picture). First, this avoids having to weld the aluminum tubing (very expensive). Second, the two 9" X 1" X 1/8" flat stock are simply attached with a couple flathead screws. The flat head screws seen on the front of the tube (right picture) simply hold the wood in place, although these are not really needed.
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The picture (left) shows an end view of the top most piece of tubing with the plastic cap removed. What I did to make the 90-degree turn in the tubing was to screw in a hanger/bolt into the center of the end grain of the top of the 4" piece of tubing. I also placed a small finish nail about 1/4" from the hanger/bolt. The nail stops the 4" tubing from spinning on the hanger/bolt. I then simply drilled matching holes in the side of the end of the top piece of 1"X12" tubing.
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The picture on the right shows the front flat stocks that are connected to the tubing with 1/4" bolts with the treads cut off, a hole drilled through the end and a washer and cotter key to hold it on.
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The 1" aluminum tubing slides into the 4 1/4" X 1 1/4" long steel tube headstock. I drilled a hole in the top of it and had a 3/8" nut welded to it. A 3/8" carriage bolt, thru-knob and locknut locks the tubing in place. The headstock is welded to 37" of 1 1/4" steel tubing, which slides into the 1 1/2" steel tubing (below). This allows the cover assembly to slide laterally left and right, to place the blade in the middle of the cover for wide cuts and the blade to the far right side of the cover for ripping thin strips. Folks do not like blade covers because they get in the way. If it slides left and right like mine does, this adjustable action alleviates much of this hassle.
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The horizontal 1 1/2" steel tube is 25 1/2" long. It has a bolt and locking system like the headstock above. The 9 1/2" gussets add support and are welded to the horizontal tube and vertical steel tubes.
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The two 1 1/2" steel tube uprights are 21 1/2" long (left picture). They are welded at both the top and bottom. The leg (middle picture) is 38 1/2" long and is welded at the top but bolts to the mobile base below (right picture). The wood block is simply filler for the gap.
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The 1 1/2" X 22" angle iron is welded to the uprights and ensures the uprights stay rigid!